QNM Articles & Patterns

French Twist Binding

 Instructions

Step 1

Be aware that this method requires about twice as much fabric as a typical binding. Binding strips can be cut either crosswise or lengthwise of the fabric. This method works best with straight-of-grain binding.

Measure the perimeter of your quilt. To determine how many strips you need, divide this number by the length of the strips (40"-44" if you are cutting the width of your fabric). Add 6" extra for each strip you cut (for the seams). Add an additional 10" for insurance and overlap. Cut enough 5"-wide binding strips to go around the quilt, including the extra inches needed.

To join strips end to end, place one strip right side up next to a vertical line on a gridded cutting mat. Position a second strip, right side down, at a 90-degree angle to the first, aligning the strip with a horizontal grid line. The ends of the strips should stick out a bit.

Draw a line diagonally between the points at the edges where the 2 strips cross. If you draw the line in the opposite direction, the strips will not open up correctly.

Pin perpendicular to the line. Stitch on the drawn line, backstitching to secure. Trim the excess, leaving a 1/4" seam allowance. Press the seam open. Repeat with all the strips to form one continuous binding.

Step 2

Lay the binding wrong side up. Trim the left end at a 45-degree angle as shown. Press the binding in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, to make a binding that is 2 1/2" wide.

Step 3

Starting at the center of one side, and using the end of the binding you have just cut, position and pin the binding along one edge on top of the quilt, raw edges even. Stitch through all layers, beginning about 12" from the start of the binding strip.

Step 4

Stop sewing 1/4" from the quilt's corner and backstitch. Remove the quilt from the machine.

Step 5

Fold the binding up, forming a 45-degree angle.

Step 6

Fold the binding back over itself. This fold should be even with the quilt's raw edge. Make sure the binding is relaxed on the quilt. If pulled too tightly, the binding will pucker at the corner. Begin stitching at the folded edge of the binding.

Stitch to within 1/4" of the next corner, and repeat Steps 5 and 6 to turn the corners. Repeat for each of the sides.

Step 7

When returning to the original side, stop stitching about 6" from the beginning of the binding. Lay the end on top of the beginning, and trim the end about 8" away from the beginning of the binding.

Step 8

Place the beginning tail inside the end tail. Open up both tails, keeping them snug along the edge of the quilt, and pinning if necessary. Mark along the edge of the angled beginning tail, onto the end tail underneath.

Step 9

Mark a line on the end tail 1/2" to the right of the first drawn line. This is for the seam allowance. To be sure you drew it in the right place, place the beginning tail inside the end. The beginning tail and the second drawn line should overlap 1/2". Cut on the second drawn line.

Step 10

With right sides together, align the raw diagonal ends of the tails. (They are bias, so handle carefully.) A small triangle will extend beyond each end. Stitch 1/4" from the cut raw end. You will be stitching between the first drawn line and the end. Press the seam open. Refold binding. Complete the stitching along the quilt's edge.

Step 11

Press the binding away from the quilt top. Fold the binding over the sides to the back, and pin to the backing. (Note: The quilt has been rotated in photos 11 and 12 so that the bottom edge of the quilt is shown on the left.)

Fold the bottom binding to the back side so that it overlaps the side binding, adjusting the corner miter fold as needed so that the bindings meet neatly. Pin the bottom binding to the backing. Repeat for the top binding.

Step 12

From the front side of the quilt, machine stitch in-the-ditch along the edge of the binding, using thread to match the quilt in the needle and thread to match the binding in the bobbin. Hand stitch the folded edge of the binding to the back of the quilt, being careful that stitches do not show on the front of the quilt. Do not stitch the mitered edge of the binding. Thus, rod pockets are formed at the top and bottom edges.

Gretchen purchases farm supply fiberglass rods that are for electric fence posts, because they do not warp and are heavier than wooden dowels. They are easily cut with a fine-tooth saw. She cuts them the width between the stitch in-the-ditch lines, and then rests the top rod on two nails in the wall.