QNM Articles & Patterns

Quilt-As-You-Go Stained Glass

 Instructions

 Step 1

Enlarge the design 150 percent on a photocopy machine. Center the design under a 10" x 8" piece of woven fusible interfacing (not fusible web). I prefer using this type of interfacing because the finished piece is less stiff than with fusible web. Trace the design onto the fusible side of the interfacing using a Sharpie® Ultra Fine marker or other permanent pen. Do not transfer the numbers from the pattern to the interfacing.

 Step 2

Trace the design on the paper side of a 10" x 8" piece of freezer paper. Cut the freezer paper apart on the drawn lines.

 Step 3

Press the shiny side of the freezer-paper pattern to the right side of the selected patch fabric. Cut the fabric 1/16" larger than the freezer paper template. Repeat with all the pattern pieces.

 Step 4

Remove the freezer paper from the cut fabric patches. Position them on the fusible side of the interfacing, using the drawn lines for placement. Overlap the applique pieces slightly, and do not leave any gaps.

 Step 5

Use a pressing sheet, and press the applique pieces to the interfacing following the manufacturer's instructions.

 Step 6

I use Clover Quick Bias fusible tape. The fusible web on the wrong side allows the tape to be pressed in place before stitching. Basting and pinning are not necessary. Directions are given in the sidebar for making your own bias.

The bias tape is applied in sequential order. The pattern has been numbered to make sequencing easier for you.

Position lengths of bias tape centered on all lines marked #1. Trim the end of each tape along the line that crosses it. This will allow the raw end to be covered by the next piece of bias tape. Press these lengths in place. If you are using homemade or nonfusible bias, place dots of fabric glue along the line to be covered, and position the bias in place on top of the glue.

 Step 7

Place all #2 bias lengths in place, covering the raw ends of #1 pieces. Press in place. Continue adding the bias lengths in numerical order.

The pattern includes one intersection that is indicated with a small square. Lift up the portion of the #1 bias tape at that place, applying heat to make it easier to lift, if needed. Insert the end of a #4 bias strip so that the end will be covered by the #1 tape.

 Step 8

Add a border if desired. Layer the project with batting and lining. I prefer thin cotton batting. Baste with safety pins.

Stitch both sides of the bias tape with thread that matches the bias, or use a smoky nylon thread. White thread is used in the sample for demonstration only. Use a straight stitch at the edge of the bias tape. Backstitch to secure the beginning and ending, and trim the thread ends close to the surface. Begin stitching in the center of the project to prevent shifting of the batting and backing. An open-toe embroidery foot may help you better see where you are stitching.

When the stitching is complete, bind the quilt in the usual way.

Hint: If you are making an heirloom ring bearer's pillow for a wedding, you may prefer to leave a length of each top thread, pull to the back, and tie top and bobbin threads together at the end of each line of stitching. Threads will be hidden inside the pillow.

To turn the quilted piece into a pillow, trim the batting and lining even with the quilt's raw edge. Cut a pillow back the same size as the top. With right sides together, stitch around all edges, leaving a small opening for turning. Turn right side out, and lightly stuff with polyfil. Stitch opening closed. Tack a 10" length of silk ribbon to the stem from which to tie the ring.